New book: Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary…
Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria-Hungary Before the First World War
Principles of Dress
Illustrations: Includes 79 colour and 109 b&w illustrations
Published: February 2015
Format: 244 x 172 mm
Extent: 470 pages
Short ISBN: 9781409436683
BL Reference: 746.09436’09034
LoC Number: 2014020446
- Rebecca Houze, Northern Illinois University, USA
- Series: The Histories of Material Culture and Collecting, 1700–1950
- Filling a critical gap in Vienna 1900 studies, this book offers a new reading of fin-de-siècle culture in the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy by looking at the unusual and widespread preoccupation with embroidery, fabrics, clothing, and fashion – both literally and metaphorically. The author resurrects lesser known critics, practitioners, and curators from obscurity, while also discussing the textile interests of better known figures, notably Gottfried Semper and Alois Riegl. Spanning the 50-year life of the Dual Monarchy, this study uncovers new territory in the history of art history, insists on the crucial place of women within modernism, and broadens the cultural history of Habsburg Central Europe by revealing the complex relationships among art history, women, and Austria-Hungary.As she considers the entirety of Austria-Hungary, Rebecca Houze surveys a wide range of materials, from craft and folk art to industrial design, and includes overlooked sources-from fashion magazines to World’s Fair maps, from exhibition catalogues to museum lectures, from feminist journals to ethnographic collections. Restoring women to their place at the intersection of intellectual and artistic debates of the time, this book weaves together discourses of the academic, scientific, and commercial design communities with middle-class life as expressed through popular culture.
- Contents: Introduction. Part I: Preliminary remarks on the principles of dress; Collecting textiles at the new museums in Vienna and Budapest; Establishing a program for needlework reform; Exhibiting cloth and culture. Part II: Embroidery and anxiety; Fashion and its discontents; Imperial masquerade. Conclusion; Bibliography; Index.
- About the Author: Rebecca Houze is Associate Professor of Art History at Northern Illinois University, USA.
- Reviews: ‘This is a beautifully written, wide-ranging study of the central role that textiles, fashion and costume played in the cultural history of the Habsburg Empire of the late-nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.’
Julie M. Johnson, University of Texas, San Antonio, USA
- Extracts from this title are available to view:Full contents list